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From Tarsus to Antakya / In the Steps
of St. Paul
East of Mersin, on the edge of the fertile Çukurova
Plain, is Tarsus, the birthplace of St. Paul. Of ancient
origin, the city was invaded and destroyed on several occasions
and only a few monuments of particular interest remain:
the Cleopatra Gate, through which Mark Antony and Cleopatra
passed when they came to Tarsus to meet, an ancient church,
and the Ottoman Ulu Cami. You can get the feel of bygone
days if you walk though narrow streets past old houses to
find St. Paul's well. Little streams, waterfalls and shady
trees at the Tarsus Falls on the outskirts of town create
an idyllic afternoon. The Karaburçak Park is perfumed
by its groves of eucalyptus trees.
Set in the heart of the Çukurova (Cilician) Plain,
Turkey's fourth largest city, Adana is at the centre of
the rich agricultural region and a thriving textile industry.
The Taskцprь (Stone Bridge) built by Hadrian and
repaired by Justinian, spans the River Seyhan which bisects
the town; only 14 of the bridge's original 21 arches still
stand. Of interest in the city are the 16th century Ulu
Mosque, the Eski Mosque, the Hasan Aga Mosque, the 19th
century clock tower and the old covered bazaar. The city's
three museums, the Archaeological Museum, which displays
locally excavated Hittite and Roman remains, the charming
Ethnography Museum, and the Atatьrk Culture Museum
should be included in a tour of the city.
After a day of sightseeing you can sample Adana kebab,
a sensational spicy tube of ground meat. Local beverages
include salgam, a drink made from dark turnips and sira,
a type of grape juice.
North of the city, the Seyhan Dam and Lake have shady walks
and quaint tea gardens and restaurants creating a cool place
to escape the heat. At sunset, look back toward the city
to the peaceful, winding ruby river, lined with twinkling
lights.
The nearest beaches with accommodation facilities are at
Yumurtalik, where an ancient harbour castle dominates the
picturesque fisherman's wharf, and at Karatas. Fishermen
enjoy the scene, and the catch, at Çamlik Park.
Off the road from Adana to Iskenderun, near Yakapinar,
lies Misis, a city which derived its wealth from its position
on the Silk Route. There are several Roman ruins at the
site, including a beautiful fourth-century mosaic depicting
Noah's Ark and the animals. Further along the road are the
impressive ruins of the Yilanlikale castle, atop a rocky
peak that dominates the Ceyhan River. South of Yilanlikale,
in the Sirkeli region, a somewhat weathered Hittite relief
marks Muvattalish's stop here on his way to Egypt. North
of Ceyhan lies the village of Dilekkaya, (the ancient Anavarza),
where you can view the ruins of a Roman-Byzantine city and
an impressive castle. The small museum at the site has two
particularly fine mosaics from Roman baths.
Osmaniye, inland from the head of the Guff of Iskenderun,
is the turn-off for two more ancient sites. The road to
Karatepe takes you to the ancient Roman city of Castabala,
where a colonnaded street, theatre, baths and a fortress
on the hill evoke a bygone era. At the Karatepe National
Park, (the neo-Hittite site), the remains of the summer
residence of King Asitawada, tablets bearing Hittite and
Phoenician inscriptions and an open-air museum with fine
bas-reliefs reveal the importance and astonishing aesthetic
of this pre-historic civilisation.
This region was much fought over during the Crusades and
the impressive fortress at Toprakkale was for a time held
by the Christian armies. Further back in history, Alexander
the Great defeated Darius III and the Persian army in 333
B.C. at the Plain of Issos (Dцrtyol). Today this area
is covered with large citrus groves which supply Turkey
with oranges, tangerines and lemons.
At Yakacik (Payas), off the highway that outlines the coast
of the Gulf of Iskenderun, the splendid 16th century Sokollu
Mehmet Pasa Complex includes a mosque, bath, bazaar, caravanserai
and medrese. Other monuments include the Cinkulesi (Tower
of Jinns) and a castle.
Iskenderun, formerly Alexandretta, was founded by Alexander
the Great after his victory over the Persians on the Plain
of Issos. Today it is a busy commercial center and port
with a fine harbour. Excellent hotels, restaurants and cafes
line the seafront surrounded by parks and palm trees. The
culinary speciality of Iskenderun is delicious prawns. Gourmets
should also try kьnefe, a hot dessert of sweetened
shredded wheat filled with melted cheese, and humus, an
appetiser of pureed chickpeas, garlic and paprika. Good
souvenirs include handcarved wooden tables and chairs and
other objects of wood.
On the coast south of Iskenderun, the holiday town of Uluçinar
(Arsuz) has good beaches, hotels, guest-houses and restaurants.
On the way to Antakya, off the main road, is the mountain
resort of Sogukoluk where you can retreat in the summer
from the blazing sun. After you cross the Belen Pass, stop
at Bagras Castle, held at various times by the Byzantines,
Mamluks and Crusaders.
Antakya, the biblical city of Antioch, lies on the Asi
River (Orontes) on a fertile plain surrounded by grand mountains.
Once the capital of the Seleucid kings, it was notorious
for its wealth and luxury. In Roman times, the city continued
to thrive with commerce and culture. It featured prominently
in early Christianity and St. Barnabas, St. Paul and St.
Peter all visited the city.
The Antakya Museum houses one of the richest collections
of Roman mosaics in the world, (Open weekdays except Monday).
These fantastic mosaics in stone were uncovered mostly at
excavations in Antakya and nearby Daphne. Outside the town,
the Grotto of St. Peter is the cave church from which the
apostle preached for the first time and where he established
the Christian community. In 1983 the church was declared
a holy site by the Vatican. Other places of interest include
a bustling bazaar and the Mosque of Habib Neccar.
South of the grotto, the Iron Gate was one of the actual
entrances of biblical Antioch. Strolling through the old
part of town, you cannot help recalling that St. Paul, St.
Peter, St. Barnabas, and other saints walked these streets,
for little has changed since that time. The Castle of Antioch,
set high above the city, offers a magnificent view over
the city and the plain.
South of Antakya is Harbiye, the ancient Daphne, where,
according to mythology, Apollo tried to make the wood nymph,
Daphne, his lover. To escape him, she changed into a laurel
tree. The city was a luxurious suburb in Roman times. Covered
with orchards, gardens, laurel trees, and waterfalls, this
is an excellent place for a good meal. In October, the delicious
Harbiye dates are in season. Wonderful laurel-scented soap
can be purchased here.
Samandag, 25 km from Antakya, is a resort town with a pristine
beach. Seleucia Peria (Çevlik), north of town, was
founded around 300 B.C. and by the time St. Paul and St.
Barnabas made their first missionary journey here it was
a busy port. The most interesting monument to see is the
Tunnel of Titus, built to divert rain water. Even by today's
standards it is a tremendous engineering achievement. You
should drive to Kapisuyu village for the spectacular panorama
from the Zeus Temple of the ancient harbour, sandy beach
and fertile plain.
Two roads lead from Antakya to Syria: the one to the east
and Aleppo passes through the frontier town of Reyhanli;
the one to the south goes through Yayladag towards Lazkiye,
Tripoli and Beirut.
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