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Edirne
 North
of Tekirdað on the border between Greece and Turkey, Edirne
was for some years the Ottoman capital, and in the l8th
century one of the seven largest cities in Europe. On a
verdant plain of poplar trees near the junction of the Tunca
and Meriç Rivers, this graceful historical city welcomes
visitors as they make their way to Ýstanbul and other points
east. The people of the Edirne area trace their origins
beyond the rule of the Macedonians. The Roman emperor Hadrian
rebuilt the city and renamed it Hadrianople after himself.
With the division of the Roman Empire, the Byzantines claimed
Edirne and in 1361, Sultan Murat I added it to his empire.
Its position for almost 100 years as capital of the Ottoman
Empire accounts for its many historically and architecturally
important buildings. With its mosques, religious complexes,
bridges, old bazaars, caravanserais and palaces, Edirne
is a living museum.
 The
Sinan Mosque is the city's focal point. Occupying the top
of a hill, Sinan's design reflects the classical Ottoman
style. Built on the orders of Sultan Selim II, (1569-1575)
it attests to the technological abilities of the day and
the genius of the Ottoman's master architect.
Built between 1403 and 1414 by Mehmet I, the Eski Mosque
is · the oldest Ottoman structure in Edirne. The
white marble of its portal contrasts with the building's
cut stone and brick masonry. Calligraphic inscriptions of
Koranic verses decorate the interior.
The Üç Serefeli Mosque, built between 1438 and 1447 by
Murat I, presages the great period of Ottoman mosque architecture
under Sinan and embodies both a new freedom from restraint
and advances in engineering. The northwest minaret has three
galleries, hence the mosque's name, and was the highest
minaret until those of the Selimiye Mosque eclipsed it.
Towards the end of the l5th century, Beyazit II commissioned
the architect Hayrettin to build him a complex in Edirne
which includes a mosque, Darüssifa (hospital), medrese,
kitchen and store rooms. The mosque is square in plan and
covered with a deep dome; over 100 domes roof the remainder.
The most important of the other buildings is the Darüssifa
which stood out in its time as a modern hospital with a
unique and humane architectural design.
Little has changed in the Kaleiçi section of Edirne
since the Middle Ages. Narrow streets lined with houses
wind through the area. The number of small restaurants arid
cafes reflect the district's renaissance.
Sinan built several of the famous baths in Edirne including
the Sokollu, Tahtakale, Mezit Bey, Beylerbeyi and Gazi Mihal
hamams. His work is also seen in the Ahmet Pasa Caravanserai
and the Rüstem Pasa Caravanserai of 1561. The latter
has been renovated and serves as a charming hotel. The old
bedesten of the early l5th century still functions as Edirne's
main market. As you drive around the area you will notice
many lovely Ottoman bridges gracing the Tunca and Meriç
Rivers.
 Edirne
has retained many of its colorful traditions and customs.
Every summer, where the Tunca River divides, an emerald
green meadow is created, called Sarayiçi, where the Kirkpinar
Greased Wrestling Contests are held. Shiny, slippery bodies
grapple to determine who will emerge as champion.
As you walk through the city and peer into the corners
of the grocery stores, you see blocks of white feta cheese,
a local specialty. Hardaliye, another of the city's delicacies,
is a grape drink mixed with mustard and marzipan. Scented
soaps, earthenware pots and straw baskets from Edirne make
good souvenirs. You will find it difficult to resist the
beautiful embroidery work of the local women.
The Archaeology and Ethnography Museum traces the history
of the area from prehistoric to Byzantine times and exhibits
clothing from the late Ottoman period. At the Turkish Islamic
Art Museum examples of Ottoman architectural details, calligraphy,
manuscripts, Korans, weapons, glass and an imperial tent
used on military campaigns are displayed.
On the way to the Saroz Gulf in the Aegean Sea, you can
stop at Uzunkõprü to see an interesting bridge
spanning the Ergene River, built by Murat II in 1444. Its
174 arches, the highest of which is 12.28 meters, make up
its 1,354 meter length. The mild climate and beautiful surroundings
on the Saroz Gulf invite holiday makers for a break of relaxation.
On the northern point of the gulf are the lovely Ibrice
and Erikli beaches. Here the hotel and guest-house facilities
are plentiful and reasonably priced.
Enez (Ainos) was an important port in ancient times, today
it lies 3.5 km. inland. Its origins can be traced to the
l2th century B.C. and was an important settlement during
the Hellenic, Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman periods. Currently,
it remains an open-air museum and was built by the Kyle
people and was known as a colony of western Anatolian civilisation.
Enez Castle has been restored several times throughout history
and is well worth a visit. There is also a church dating
from the 6th century B.C., some carved tombs and a beach
with clear water. The people here are quite hospitable and
Enez makes an interesting stopover.
The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains divide the province of
Kirklareli. Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint
houses transport you to an idyllic and tranquil frame of
mind. The city of Kirklareli's oldest mosque, the Hizirbey
Mosque, was built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a
bazaar. Nearby stands a hamam also built under Hizir Bey's
patronage. The l4th century Kirklar Memorial with its impressive
18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honoring the site where
40 soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans conquered
this area neighboring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan
building in the Cedi Ali Pasa Mosque.
Vize (Byzia), an important Byzantine center, houses the
Küçük Ayasofya church and a castle, both
dating from the Byzantine period. under the command of Murat
I. The Archaeological Museum exhibits finds from local excavations.
Kirklareli's Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy
beaches and good fish restaurants. Igneada, 98 km east of
Kirklareli, lies squeezed between its sandy shores and the
Yildiz Mountains. Kiyiköy (Midye) is another holiday
resort town with good accommodations and picturesque dwellings
from the Middle Ages; the town and its land walls date from
the Byzantine period.
The Sokollu Mosque in Lüleburgaz, on the Edirne-Ýstanbul
road, is an exquisite work of Sinan's that dates from 1570.
The If you are travelling north to Bulgaria, linger for
a few hours in the peaceful and green town of Dereköy,
the last stop before the border.
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