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From Erzincan to Doрubayazэt

The great trans-Anatolian axis road, is the most direct route between Ankara and the Iranian border, and passes through Sivas, Erzincan, Erzurum, Agri and Dogubayazit.

Erzincan, the principal city of its province, lies 688 km east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The highly-decorated and hand-fashioned copperware of Erzincan maintains a long tradition in the area's fame for metalwork. Bolkar, a ski slope 40 km to the west, provides facilities for winter sports enthusiasts.

Many of the magnificent bronze objects in the Museum of Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara were found at the nearby Uranian site of Altintepe, east of Erzincan. At Tercan, the round 12th-century mausoleum of Mama Hatun with its beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off the main road. The waterfalls at Girvelik, in the same southeasterly direction, provide ideal picnic spots where you can eat a packed lunch and relax to the sound of water tumbling over rocks. Southwest of Erzincan is the beautiful green town of Kemaliye on the Firat (Euphrates) River. The hospitality of the locals and the architecture of the town are worth a visit. The best place for rafting and canoeing is at nearby Karanlik Bogaz. You will also want to go on a photo safari to take in the natural beauty of the area.

Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest city in eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of 1,950 meters. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye monument commemorating the Turkish-Russian war will catch your eye.

Although the collection in the archaeological museum reveals much of the city's history and ancient origins, it is Erzurum's architecture which is in fact the best picture of its past. The city walls and fortress are reminiscent of the period of Byzantine rule. Of particular importance are the remaining Seljuk buildings - brilliant examples of a fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has an unusual form with seven wide naves. The Зifte Minareli Medrese, or theological college built by the Seljuk Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with elaborate stone carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets. Behind the Зifte Minareli Medrese stands the Ьз Kьmbetler, a group of three tombs, the most notable of which is that of Emir Saltuk. The 13th century Hatuniye Tьrbesi, or mausoleum, was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's daughter. The beautiful portal and richly-tiled minaret of the 13th-century, Yakutiye Medrese reveal another facet of Seljuk architecture. You can also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum. The great architect Sinan left his mark on the city in the Lala Mustafa Pasa Mosque.

While wandering around the city, notice the local black stone (Erzurum Oltu Tasi) which is used in jewellery. The shops on the upper floor of the Tashan (Rьstem Pasa Caravanserai) offer the best selection. A road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter sports resort of Palandцken, only 6 km from Erzurum. This center has a number of hotels as well as the longest ski run and the best snow quality in Turkey, making it a favourite haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum lake, 120 km from Erzurum in the direction of Artvin and the Black Sea, may be the most tranquil sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the Tortum Waterfalls at the north end of the lake, that plunge from a height of 47 meters. (After the rushing torrents of the April to June snow-melt clears the falls, the flow of water slows considerably.)

Kars (212 km northeast of Erzurum) stands at an altitude of 1,750 meters and has played an important role in Turkish history. It was at the center of the Turko-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress from the 12th century. Nearby, the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the Apostles) reveals a curious mixture of architectural influences. Bas-reliefs representing the twelve apostles in rather stiff and primitive poses, ring the exterior drum of the dome. The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the surrounding region, as well as many ethnographic items relating to eastern Turkey. Kars is particularly known for its distinctive kilims and carpets, and it retains a strong heritage of folkdancing. Visitors always seem to enjoy this traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers produce excellent Kasar cheese and delicious honey. About 42 kilometres east of the city on the ancient Silk Road, the medieval Armenian capital of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. The extent to which the large churches are still standing after a thousand years will amaze you. Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars) is a ski center with resort hotels set in a scenic pine forest.

The Kьr River divides Ardahan in the samenamed province (83 km from Kars) and separates the ancient pan on one side from the new city on the other. A 16th-century castle built by Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the old pan of the city. To the north of Ardahan via Posof lies the Tьrkgцzь bordergate which is now open for travel to the republic of Georgia.

Зildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an altitude of 1,965 meters. The scenic area around the lake provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the lake, the manmade Akзakale Island was reputedly constructed with the labour of thousands; a temple with Urartian inscriptions remains. Seytan (Devil's) Castle is near Зildir.

The city of Igdir in the samenamed province stands on a large, fertile plain where fruit and, unusual for this geographical region, cotton grow. The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah and his family descended from Mt. Agri (Ararat) toward the fertile plain. From here, their progeny most likely settled to the south and west along the Firat (Euphrates) and Dicle (Tigris) rivers, establishing the second generation of mankind. From this plain, you have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to visit near the city include Uranian rock monuments, a 13th century Seljuk caravanserai and the Karakale (Black Castle). In Karakoyun Village, on the road between Igdir and Aralik, stop at the impressive 15th century cemeteries with Karakoyun (ram and ewe) monumental tombstones.

Agri, a provincial capital on a 1,650-meter-high plateau, takes its name from the mountain which looms over it . The pleasant Balik (Fish) lake to the northeast, not surprisingly has plenty of fish restaurants serving local delicacies. Thermal springs bubble up all over the area. For those who want hardy outdoor events, a visit the Bubi Dagi Ski Center, 20 km southwest of Agri, will provide a few days of snow sports.

Do not miss the spectacular Ishak Pasa Palace, only 6 km from Dogubayazit. Ishak Pasa, Ottoman governor of the province, constructed the palace in the 17th century with a mixture of architectural styles. Nearby you can see a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a rock tomb from the ninth century B.C.

Near Dogubayazit, Turkey's most scenic natural monument, Mt. Agri rises to a height of 5,137 meters. To see the place where it is believed that Noah's Ark came aground, you can begin your trek at Ьzengili village, 25 km east of Dogubayazit. Be sure to try the local dessert, asure (Noah's Pudding), believed to have first been made by Noah's wife from the last bits of food in the ark.

Eastern Anatolia



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