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From Erzincan to Doрubayazэt
The great trans-Anatolian axis road, is the most direct
route between Ankara and the Iranian border, and passes
through Sivas, Erzincan, Erzurum, Agri and Dogubayazit.
Erzincan, the principal city of its province, lies 688 km
east of Ankara on a fertile plain. The highly-decorated and
hand-fashioned copperware of Erzincan maintains a long
tradition in the area's fame for metalwork. Bolkar, a ski
slope 40 km to the west, provides facilities for winter sports
enthusiasts.
Many of the magnificent bronze objects in the Museum of
Anatolian Civilisations in Ankara were found at the nearby
Uranian site of Altintepe, east of Erzincan. At Tercan, the
round 12th-century mausoleum of Mama Hatun with its
beautifully carved stone portal is worth a detour off the main
road. The waterfalls at Girvelik, in the same southeasterly
direction, provide ideal picnic spots where you can eat a
packed lunch and relax to the sound of water tumbling over
rocks. Southwest of Erzincan is the beautiful green town of
Kemaliye on the Firat (Euphrates) River. The hospitality of
the locals and the architecture of the town are worth a visit.
The best place for rafting and canoeing is at nearby Karanlik
Bogaz. You will also want to go on a photo safari to take in
the natural beauty of the area.
Erzurum, 193 km east of Erzincan and the largest city in
eastern Anatolia, sprawls on a high plateau at an altitude of
1,950 meters. As you enter the city, the large Aziziye
monument commemorating the Turkish-Russian war will catch your
eye.
Although the collection in the archaeological museum
reveals much of the city's history and ancient origins, it is
Erzurum's architecture which is in fact the best picture of
its past. The city walls and fortress are reminiscent of the
period of Byzantine rule. Of particular importance are the
remaining Seljuk buildings - brilliant examples of a
fascinating aesthetic. The Ulu Mosque, built in 1179, has an
unusual form with seven wide naves. The Зifte Minareli
Medrese, or theological college built by the Seljuk Sultan
Alaeddin Keykubat in 1253, astonishes with elaborate stone
carvings on its portal and its majestic double minarets.
Behind the Зifte Minareli Medrese stands the Ьз Kьmbetler, a
group of three tombs, the most notable of which is that of
Emir Saltuk. The 13th century Hatuniye Tьrbesi, or mausoleum,
was built for Sultan Alaeddin Keykubat's daughter. The
beautiful portal and richly-tiled minaret of the 13th-century,
Yakutiye Medrese reveal another facet of Seljuk architecture.
You can also see Ottoman buildings in Erzurum. The great
architect Sinan left his mark on the city in the Lala Mustafa
Pasa Mosque.
While wandering around the
city, notice the local black stone (Erzurum Oltu Tasi) which
is used in jewellery. The shops on the upper floor of the
Tashan (Rьstem Pasa Caravanserai) offer the best selection. A
road through splendid mountain scenery leads to the winter
sports resort of Palandцken, only 6 km from Erzurum. This
center has a number of hotels as well as the longest ski run
and the best snow quality in Turkey, making it a favourite
haunt of expert skiers. The glassy Tortum lake, 120 km from
Erzurum in the direction of Artvin and the Black Sea, may be
the most tranquil sight in all of Turkey. Be sure to see the
Tortum Waterfalls at the north end of the lake, that plunge
from a height of 47 meters. (After the rushing torrents of the
April to June snow-melt clears the falls, the flow of water
slows considerably.)
Kars (212 km northeast of
Erzurum) stands at an altitude of 1,750 meters and has played
an important role in Turkish history. It was at the center of
the Turko-Russian War. The Russian legacy can still be seen in
much of the town's architecture. The lower city unfolds at the
foot of an impressive Seljuk fortress from the 12th century.
Nearby, the Havariler Museum (the 10th century Church of the
Apostles) reveals a curious mixture of architectural
influences. Bas-reliefs representing the twelve apostles in
rather stiff and primitive poses, ring the exterior drum of
the dome. The Archaeological Museum houses beautiful wood
carvings, an excellent collection of coins found in the
surrounding region, as well as many ethnographic items
relating to eastern Turkey. Kars is particularly known for its
distinctive kilims and carpets, and it retains a strong
heritage of folkdancing. Visitors always seem to enjoy this
traditional entertainment. On the mountain pastures, villagers
produce excellent Kasar cheese and delicious honey. About 42
kilometres east of the city on the ancient Silk Road, the
medieval Armenian capital of Ani (Ocakli) lies mostly in
ruins. Impressive fortified walls still encircle the ruins of
numerous churches, mosques and caravanserais. The extent to
which the large churches are still standing after a thousand
years will amaze you. Sarikamis (53 km southwest of Kars) is a
ski center with resort hotels set in a scenic pine forest.
The Kьr River divides Ardahan in the samenamed province (83
km from Kars) and separates the ancient pan on one side from
the new city on the other. A 16th-century castle built by
Sultan Selim the Grim, one of the most stately citadels in
Turkey with 14 towers and a span of 745 meters, stands in the
old pan of the city. To the north of Ardahan via Posof lies
the Tьrkgцzь bordergate which is now open for travel to the
republic of Georgia.
Зildir takes its name from the nearby lake which lies at an
altitude of 1,965 meters. The scenic area around the lake
provides a habitat for a fascinating variety of birds. In the
lake, the manmade Akзakale Island was reputedly constructed
with the labour of thousands; a temple with Urartian
inscriptions remains. Seytan (Devil's) Castle is near Зildir.
The city of Igdir in the
samenamed province stands on a large, fertile plain where
fruit and, unusual for this geographical region, cotton grow.
The Bible relates that when the flood waters receded, Noah and
his family descended from Mt. Agri (Ararat) toward the fertile
plain. From here, their progeny most likely settled to the
south and west along the Firat (Euphrates) and Dicle (Tigris)
rivers, establishing the second generation of mankind. From
this plain, you have the best view of Mount Agri. Monuments to
visit near the city include Uranian rock monuments, a 13th
century Seljuk caravanserai and the Karakale (Black Castle).
In Karakoyun Village, on the road between Igdir and Aralik,
stop at the impressive 15th century cemeteries with Karakoyun
(ram and ewe) monumental tombstones.
Agri, a provincial capital on a 1,650-meter-high plateau,
takes its name from the mountain which looms over it . The
pleasant Balik (Fish) lake to the northeast, not surprisingly
has plenty of fish restaurants serving local delicacies.
Thermal springs bubble up all over the area. For those who
want hardy outdoor events, a visit the Bubi Dagi Ski Center,
20 km southwest of Agri, will provide a few days of snow
sports.
Do not miss the spectacular
Ishak Pasa Palace, only 6 km from Dogubayazit. Ishak Pasa,
Ottoman governor of the province, constructed the palace in
the 17th century with a mixture of architectural styles.
Nearby you can see a bas-relief of an Urartian king, and a
rock tomb from the ninth century B.C.
Near Dogubayazit, Turkey's most scenic natural monument,
Mt. Agri rises to a height of 5,137 meters. To see the place
where it is believed that Noah's Ark came aground, you can
begin your trek at Ьzengili village, 25 km east of
Dogubayazit. Be sure to try the local dessert, asure (Noah's
Pudding), believed to have first been made by Noah's wife from
the last bits of food in the ark.
Eastern Anatolia
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