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West of Ankara
The most important Phrygian sites in Anatolia are to be
found in the provinces of Ankara, Eskisehir and Afyon.
Yassihцyьk (Gordion) was the capital of Phrygia and the place
were Alexander the Great cut the Gordion Knot to gain the key
to Asia. The tumulus of King Midas, who turned whatever he
touched to gold, can be visited here. Nearby, the remains of
the ancient city Gordion, still under excavation, and a small
museum are worth a quick tour.
Off the same Ankara-Eskisehir road is Ballihisar
(Pessinus), an important Phrygian religious cult center. The
most important remains are those of a temple to Cybele, the
mother goddess whose worship was at the heart of the Phrygian
culture. The small open air museum has some interesting
sculptures and tombstones. At Midas Sehri two enormous facades
cut into a rocky promontory once held cult statues for the
worship of Cybele in their niches. Throughout the area rock
tombs - cave-like openings - pierce the sand coloured stone. A
recently discovered underground passage leads from the site to
the valley below.
Aslantas and Aslankaya were both centres of cult worship in
Phrygian times. The former, 34 km north of Afyon, has two
monumental lion reliefs; the latter, 52 km from Afyon,
comprises a temple and a lion relief. Other Phrygian monuments
can be explored at Doganlikale, Kьmbet and Deveboynu.
Eskisehir was founded in the first millennium B.C. on the
banks of the Porsuk River by the Phrygians. Significant
architectural monuments include the 13th century Alaeddin
Mosque and the 16th century Kursunlu Complex. All three of the
city's museums are worth visiting: the Archaeological Museum
has Phrygian objects and sculptures from the area; the Ottoman
House Museum; a fine example of 19th century domestic
architecture, houses a collection of local ethnographical
items; and the Atatьrk Culture Museum has a photographic
exhibition of Atatьrk's life, a number of personal effects and
a display of items made of meerschaum. The world's best
meerschaum, a soft white stone, comes from mines in the area
surrounding Eskisehir. Pipes and other objects can be
purchased in the town's souvenir shops. A spring-fed lake
Sakaryabasi, surrounded by beautiful parkland, draws many
visitors who want to enjoy the fresh air and eat in one of the
fresh fish restaurants.
Sivrihisar's charm derives from its many typical Ottoman
houses which imbue the town with a faded elegance. The 13th
century Ulu Mosque, formerly a caravanserai; and the Alemsah
Mausoleum are very interesting and worth a visit. Connoisseurs
of carpets will know that kilims from Sivrihisar are
particularly prized.
On the hillside above Seyyit Battal Gazi stands the
imposing 13th century mosque and tomb complex built in memory
of the warrior of Islam, Seyyit Battal.
Yunus Emre Kцyь (Sarikцy) is the burial place of Yunus
Emre, the great 13th century poet. His poetry lives today, its
message of love and humanity as relevant as ever.
Commemorative celebrations are held in the town every May. In
addition to his grave, visitors can see a small museum
dedicated to his life and works.
Central Anatolia
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