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The Western Black Sea Coast
The Yildiz (Istranca) Mountains bisect the province of
Kirklareli. Lush mountainous landscape dotted with quaint
houses transport you to an idyllic and tranquil reverie. In
the city of Kirklareli the oldest mosque is the Hizirbey
Mosque, built in 1383. The mosque complex includes a bazaar.
Nearby stands a hamam (bath) also built under the patronage of
Hizir Bey. The 14th-century Kirklar Memorial with its
impressive 18 columns stands on Kirklar Hill honouring the
site where 40 soldiers lost their lives when the Ottomans
conquered this area under the command of Murat I. The
Archaeology Museum exhibits finds from local excavations.
The Sokollu Mosque in Lüleburgaz, on the Edirne-Istanbul
road, is an exquisite work of Sinan that dates from 1570. The
neighbouring town of Babaeski also boasts a Sinan building in
the Cedid Ali Pasa Mosque.
Vize (Byzia), an important Byzantine center, houses the
Küçük Ayasofya church and a castle, both dating from the
Byzantine period.
If you are travelling north to Bulgaria, linger for a few
hours in the peaceful and green town of Dereköy, the last stop
before the border.
Kirklareli's Black Sea Coast is another place to enjoy
beaches and good fish restaurants. Igneada, 98 km east of
Kirklareli, lies sandwiched between sandy shores and the
Yildiz Mountains. Kiyiköy (Midye) is another holiday resort
town with good accommodation and picturesque dwellings from
the Middle Ages. The town and its walls date from the
Byzantine period. The best site to visit in Midye is the
historic St. Nicholas Rock Monastery.
Also on the European Black Sea coast, only 35 km from
Istanbul, are the sandy beaches, and hotels, motels and
camping facilities of Kilyos.
Across the Bosphorus, on the Asian shore, Sile's (71 km
from Istanbul) long sandy beaches, overlooked by the remains
of a Genoese Castle, attract many visitors. The excellent
restaurants and nightlife make it a popular weekend retreat
for Istanbul residents. Cotton blouses and shirts (Sile Bezi)
are sewn and embroidered here.
Originally founded by a Polish prince as a home for Polish
exiles, Polonezköy (25 km from Istanbul) has been transformed
into a relaxing resort with guest houses and restaurants
serving a delicious selection of fresh local produce. Inland
from the coast, the rolling hills and peaceful woods make an
excellent area for horseback riding.
Agva (50 km east of Sile), on the banks of a river as well
as on the shores of the Black Sea, is surrounded by lovely
scenery, ideal for a camping holiday. Kerpe, Kefken and Karasu
are three quaint fishing villages east of Agva. Delightful
restaurants and limpid water draw a constant stream of
visitors.
Inland, between Ankara and Istanbul, is Bolu (262 km from
Istanbul and 192 km from Ankara), an important provincial
center with an impressive 14th century Ulu Mosque and modern
thermal facilities close at hand. The Bolu Archaeology and
Ethnography Museum has artifacts from the Hittite, Roman,
Byzantine, Seljuk and Ottoman periods. Southwest of Bolu is
the popular and relaxing Lake Abant resort, set in lovely
alpine surroundings at an altitude of 1,500 meters. Istanbul
dwellers often escape to the lake for a weekend of fresh air
and exercise.
In the Köroglu Mountains is
Kartalkaya, one of Turkey's major ski resorts. In the summer
you can stop for a picnic at Gölcük Lake. The breathtakingly
beautiful Yedi Göller (Seven Lakes) National Park lies north
of Bolu. Nearby, the town of Mengen has a reputation for its
good cooks and holds the annual Chefs' Festival of in August,
featuring traditional Turkish specialities.
The sites around Konuralp (53 km from Bolu) the ancient
Prusa ad Hypium, continue to yield artifacts from both the
Roman and Byzantine periods, which are on display in the local
museum. Among the ruins, the Roman theatre is not to be
missed.
Back on the coast, the lovely beach and comfortable guest
houses and hotels at Akçakoca ensure that it remains a popular
holiday resort. Near the town, you can explore the remains of
a Genoese castle now set amid hazelnut groves.
Alapli is an ideal place for water sports, especially
sailing and surfing. Long sandy beaches stretch both east and
west on both sides of the town.
Eregli, whose ancient name was Heraklea ad Pontus, stands
on a hill adjacent to a Byzantine castle. In the spring the
aroma of strawberries, some of the sweetest grown in Turkey,
fills the air, making a visit a mouthwatering experience.
Eregli derives its name from the mythological demi-god,
Hercules, who, in the 11th century caught the three-headed
dog, Cerberus, guardian of the gates of hell. According to
Xenophon, Cerberus resided in the cave Cehennemagzi (Entrance
to Hell), outside of Eregli near Kavakderesi.
Zonguldak is a major center of coal production and an
important Black Sea port. The scenic road on the east side of
town leads to the areas of Kopuz and Uzunkum, where tea
gardens and restaurants beckon tourists to spend a leisurely
afternoon.
Connoisseurs of fine handcrafted wood, travel to Devrek, a
pretty town, 50 km southeast of Zonguldak, to purchase its
renowned wooden canes.
Karabük, situated 10 km southeast of Safranbolu is the most
important industrial center in Turkey, known for its iron and
steel industry. Not far from Karabük lies the charming park of
Çamlik, the perfect place for rest and relaxation. The entire
area is dotted with pine forests and there is a lovely tea
garden and restaurant in a nice place to enjoy nature.
Also inland and further to the east is charming Safranbolu.
Step back in time in the lovely "old world" style of the town
to see some of the most beautiful traditional old houses,
unique in Turkey for their outstanding design and
construction. The most interesting of these include:
Kaymakamlar House, Aygiroglu House, and Asmazlar Havuzlu Konak
which has been restored and is now used as a hotel operated by
the Turkish Touring Automobile Club. The Mektepçiler House is
also noteworthy as is the Haci Memisler House. Pasa House is
also restored and has been converted into a lovely cafe and
pension as well. The castle on the hill offers a vista of the
town. Be sure to see the Cinci Inn and Hamam (17th-century
Turkish bath), the Izzet Mehmet Pasa Mosque and Library
(18th-century), and the Köprülü Mosque which also dates from
the 17th century. Also worth seeing are the Dagdelen Mosque
(18th-century) and Kaçak Mosque (19th-century). UNESCO has
named Safranbolu as an international cultural area.
Safranbolu originally takes its
name from the saffron fields that dotted the area in the 19th
century. Today, saffron fields abound in the village of
Davutobasi, 20 km away, where a thriving saffron business
continues. Before leaving, be sure not to miss the Arasta (Old
Bazaar) where you can watch craftsmen at work and bargain with
them for their goods. The "lokum" (Turkish Delight) is also a
special treat, unique among lokum connoisseurs and a must to
sample.
About 36 km. south of Karabük is Eskipazar, where the old
Ömer Beyler Mansion is located. It is now restored and famous
for its ornately decorated ceilings.
Bartin (80 km east of Zonguldak) is a pretty city of
timbered houses that holds a strawberry festival every year in
the spring. The remains of a Roman road dating back to the
reign of the Emperor Claudius can still be seen. A boat trip
on the Bartin river makes for a delightful excursion. Nearby
Inkum has been developed into a holiday village with a sandy
beach, restaurant and guest houses.
Amasra (17 km from Bartin), one of the most beautiful towns
on the Black Sea coast, was called Sesamos in ancient times,
when it was founded by the Miletians in the sixth century B.C.
It stands on a peninsula made by two inlets. The eastern side
enjoys a reputation for good swimming. On a rocky promontory
rise the ramparts of a Byzantine citadel, inside of which is
an old church, now the Fatih Mosque. The necropolis dates from
the Roman period. Remnants from Amasra's entire history are
displayed in the Archaeology Museum. You can purchase a lovely
handcarved wooden souvenir on Çekiciler street. Continuing
eastward along the coast, you arrive at Çakraz (15 km east of
Amasra) a typical fishing village with excellent beaches,
friendly accommodation and fine restaurants. The winding road
between Çakraz and Inebolu has steep mountainsides and offers
a spectacular panoramic view.
Beyond Çakraz is Kurucasile, a town known for its fishing
boat manufacturing. Cide, 28 km farther, has good hotels and a
pleasant beach, providing comfort and relaxation. Gideros Bay
will make you think a dream has come true.
Inebolu ( 100 km east of Cide) is a typical Black Sea town
set in lush greenery displaying many fine examples of
traditional Turkish architecture. East of Inebolu is Abana,
another good holiday center. Situated inland amid beautiful
forests, the provincial center of Kastamonu (90 km south of
Inebolu) also dasts several important monuments: the
12th-century Byzantine castle, the 13th-century Atabey Mosque
and the Ibni Neccar Mosque of 1356. The Archaeology and
Ethnography Museum displays artifacts found in the region and
the Liva Pasa Mansion Museum also has local ethnographical
artifacts. Near the town is Evkaya, a rock tomb dating from
the sixth century B.C. In the village of Kasaba, the 14th
century Mahmut Bey Mosque retains some of the finest wood
carvings found anywhere in Turkey. About 41 km west of
Kastamonu via Daday, Çömlekçiler village has traditional
timber houses and farms offering country horseback riding
tours.
Then, 63 km south of Kastamonu
is Ilgaz National Park, a delightful protected area in the
Ilgaz Mountains, in which also is a ski center and good
accommodation. East of the park by the Devrez and Kizilirmak
rivers, is Tosya where extensive rice fields cover the
landscape.
Ilgarini Cave, in the region of Pinarbasi (northwest of
Kastamonu), is one of the largest caves in Turkey. It is a
wonderful place for trekking and exploration off the beaten
path.
Black Sea
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